The tapping block has a recessed area on one side and end. You first lock the short end, then tap the long end until that joint locks. I’m not sure that way is easier than the traditional way of locking one piece into the previous row and then adding the consecutive pieces of that row one by one with the use of a tapping block. ![]() We locked the short ends of planks in a whole row and then locked the long side of that whole row into the previous row. Because we were working with short rows, we tried a method I read about when looking for installation tips on the interweb. This room is small and I’m building shelving against two walls so I’m not covering the entire width of the floor. The second and consecutive rows you have to lock end to end and also lock them with the previous row. The first row simply requires locking the planks end to end. Running it along the table saw is an easy way to remove the tongue on the long end but if you don’t have a table saw, a circular saw or even an oscillating multi tool works. The tongue should be removed from the long side of all of the planks in the first row and from the short end on only the first plank. Install the tongue towards the wall you are starting on. To lock the planks together, you tilt one plank up slightly, insert the tongue over/into the groove and then rotate that plank down, locking the joint. Really, I think it’s a “double tongue and groove” system because there’s a small groove on the underside of the tongue that a small tongue on the top end of the groove locks into when the whole thing locks properly. So with these floors, the “tongue” fits over the top of the “groove” protrusion. My brain sees a protrusion as a tongue in a tongue and groove situation. Now, it might look confusing at first glance because there is a protrusion on both sides of each plank. The floors connect with a tongue and groove system. The spacers are to ensure a 3/8″ expansion gap so the floors can expand and contract around the perimeter of the room. The only thing needed to install is a saw to cut the planks, a mallet and an installation kit with a pull bar, tapping block and spacers. This is a floating floor so it’s not glued or nailed down. You’ll want to fill depressions with floor leveling compound if there is more than 3/16″ unevenness per 10-foot span. ![]() If there are low or high spots, some light will come through and the straight edge may rock back and forth like a teeter-totter. If your floor is dead flat, the straight edge will lay completely flat and not let any light through. To check if your floor is flat, lay a straight edge on your floor. I sanded down along the seam in the subfloor because it peaked up to a high point along that line. We prepped the floor by making sure it was flat. The flooring I selected has an attached underlayment so we didn’t need to deal with a separate underlayment. Installing flooring can be hard on your back so I just do a little at a time and take lots of breaks. I actually started installing the new flooring before I decided to dump the recording studio project and started in that room. I’m partnering with Pergo to complete my loft and am installing 12mm Coffee Handscraped Hickorylaminate flooring. ![]() Here’s how I installed my Pergo flooring. Of course you’ll want to follow the manufacturer installation instructions for up to date instructions on your specific flooring. A table saw or circular saw will come in handy for ripping the planks to width when you come to the end run. You will need a miter saw to cut your flooring to the proper length. ![]() The tongue and groove click together for easy installation. It is a floating floor so you don’t need a flooring nailer to install it. Pergo is easy to clean and resists scratches. Then it took about four hours to complete installing laminate flooring. It took about an hour to remove the old carpeting. I’m installing Pergo in my loft craft room.
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